nadsat » clothing

Rediscovering the Bean Blucher

Zachary — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 01:38:56 +0000

I received my LL Bean Blucher Mocs as a Christmas gift in 2006. They received a lot of wear at first but I always favored my boat shoes in the end. Since leaving my well worn and much loved boat shoes in a rental car on a recent vacation, I’ve rediscovered my Bean Bluchers. Like a good ball cap and so many other classic items, they only get better with age and wear.

The Bean Blucher Moc has been around for a long time and some still think its glory days have passed. The Trad along with many of the members at the AAAC Trad forum think this way. I don’t have the experience to comment on this, so perhaps they are right, but I feel like I enjoy the modern iteration for many of the same reasons the previous generation liked the original shoe. (It should be noted that I have never heard of any official changes to the shoe from LL Bean. This old shoe vs. new shoe debate is based on the memories of individuals and comparisons with vintage shoes from the 1980s).

It is casual and comfortable like the boat shoe and has enough history on its side to be considered a classic. The blucher excels in its versatility. I love the Sperry Authentic Original and could easily wear them everyday of the year (well maybe in Georgia, not Ohio) but despite the all season wear endorsed by the trad and preppy crowd, it is still a single minded piece of footwear. The blucher is best enjoyed without socks, but can be worn with socks and stretched to a business casual look. The boat shoe is sock free only in my mind.

The Bean Blucher Moc remains a classic piece of footwear that deserves more attention that it gets. Yes it has evolved some with the times, but I don’t think this degrades the appeal. I recommend you give it a try, it was even endorsed by GQ back in November of 2007. They can also be found on ACL’s list of recommend fall footwear. Mine will continue to get plenty of wear for the rest of the summer and into the fall.

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Away We Go

Zachary — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 22:47:59 +0000

While watching Away We Go this weekend, I noticed something interesting in the wardrobe choice for John Krasinski’s character.

Look a little closer at the watch he’s sporting, that band looks familiar doesn’t it?

Perhaps John Krasinski is a Nadsat reader? Fine choice, Mr Krasinski. The movie was enjoyable too.

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Finally got a new watch

Zachary — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 21:33:59 +0000

After debating it for awhile, I finally have another watch. I like my old watch and will still wear it, but I had been eager to try out different watch bands and unfortunately my old Seiko won’t allow it. Luckily, Sandy got me a watch and an assortment of bands for my birthday last week.

The classic navy and gold is my favorite.

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On Shorts and Pants

Zachary — Thu, 15 May 2008 22:25:01 +0000

I can’t remember the last time my Dad wore shorts. There may be an old picture of the family at Myrtle Beach with him in shorts but it has be at least ten years old. He believes once a man reaches a certain age he ceases to wear shorts. It’s the same logic with jeans. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of my Dad wearing jeans, let alone see a photograph of it. Perhaps I’m just not old enough yet but I don’t see a problem with either shorts or jeans. I’ll save the jeans discussion for later and since the weather is warming up and summer is about to begin, shorts are relevant.

Inseam is the biggest question for me when it comes to shorts shopping. I like a 7″ inseam. Some have called me picky, others particular, but I just like to think I know exactly what I want. The only place I’ve had much success finding 7″ inseam shorts is J. Crew and even then you must order it from the catalog for the not so low price of roughly $50 dollars. LL Bean and Lands End produce much more affordable shorts in a 6″ inseam but for some reason that extra inch makes all the difference to me. The rest of the world seems happy with either 9 or 10 inch shorts but not me. What’s a fella to do?

I decided to turn old pairs of pants into shorts. What you say? Cut the legs off perfectly good pants? Yes it might not be the simplest approach but it certainly works. Shorts are inherently casual things so using pants that have some extra mileage on them is not a concern. Have pants with worn or frayed cuffs? Even better! For my little experiment I selected three pairs of pants that while not that old or worn, were not getting much wear. Each is made of 100% cotton, but in a thin, summer weave. This made them cool pants to wear in warm weather but also made them impossibly wrinkly. I hate to iron so they never got much wear.

After a short stay at the tailor shop, my pants returned as three pairs of shorts. The best part: the inseam was just a matter of telling the tailor what I wanted. The cost was the same as finishing a pair of pants, certainly less than purchasing a new pair from J. Crew and it gave new life to three old items.

Is there any difference between these “shorts” and those purchased new? Not that I can tell. See if you can guess which pair in the picture below started life as pants:

The green pair was originally pants. The khaki pair was purchased from J. Crew. I’m not sure if this approach is economical if doing it with new pants but I guess it depends on the level of customization you want and how attached you are to a certain model of pant. Some online sellers offer free hemming on their pants and I think some AAAC members have had success ordering their “pants” with short length inseams. I have not tried this myself.

I think I’m set for the summer on shorts for now, but any pants that become too frayed to wear will received second consideration as shorts.

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NYC: Shopping Fun!

Zachary — Fri, 09 May 2008 15:26:14 +0000

Whilst in NYC I made it a goal to visit both J. Press and the Brooks Brothers flagship store. Both were an experience. These two stores are largely considered the Meccas of traditional American men’s clothing, particularly those that subscribe to the natural shoulder, sack cut, ivy league style. This style has been dubbed “Trad” by those at Ask Andy About Clothes as well as other communities such as Style Forum and Film Noir Buff. While the “Trad” term is largely an internet creation, the clothes have their root in American history. For furthering reading on this topic I suggest the following (as well as the links above):

My first stop was J. Press at 380 Madison Ave. I’d never step foot in a J. Press before, only ogled the catalogs. I had never even purchased anything from them before (my budget typically won’t allow it). I had spotted a nice looking long sleeve Madras shirt in the catalog beforehand and was also interested in a gold tie bar, so I had a shopping agenda on this visit. I’m a fan of gold accessories. What is everyone’s infatuation with silver or stainless items?

I was surprised when I first walked in. It was all very white and very bright. The racks were full of tweed, navy, flannel, and all those other “frumpy, old man” styles but the rest of the decor screamed of an upscale Gap or J. Crew. I was expecting old dark wood, paintings of the store’s founders on the wall, and maybe even an old crotchety fellow in a bow tie smoking a cigar in the corner. I was disappointed. I’ve heard the other Press locations are more traditional.

My shopping time was limited but the clothing selection was overwhelming. I had no idea where to even start. I could have spent all day in there trying on blazers, suits, etc. Unfortunately I think Sandy would have strangled me. The store was crowded also (it was Friday evening). I was helped by a busy but still attentive salesmen. He directed me toward the madras shirts (they didn’t have what I had seen on the website) and helped me with a tie bar. I did not purchase a tie bar though and instead I decided on something more practical. I picked a scarf, specifically a wool “schoolboy muffler.” It is made in England of 100% wool and in a yellow and navy stripe specifically for St. Anthony’s Hall at Yale. I have no affiliation with Yale or any Ivy League for that matter, but pale yellow and navy looked good to me and seemed most appropriate for my alma mater.

The scarf was immediately useful. My combination of a pea coat, sheltland sweater, and oxford shirt was not cutting it against the miserable NYC cold and wind. It even snowed later that night. It was on sale too so no complaints on my end. That scarf has probably turned out to be one of the more rational and better clothing purchases I’ve made as far as need and use. It’s up there with my Bean boots. I wore it the entire time we were in NYC.

The next stop was a Brooks Brothers at 346 Madison. I’ve been in Brooks Brothers many times (there are stores in Raleigh and Atlanta), ordered from the catalog, and purchased their clothing at thrift stores or off eBay. 346 Madison is the flagship store and it is an impressive experience. When we walked in we were greeted by a gentleman who I’ll refer to as “Steve” who described himself as the “Brand Ambassador” (his business card even says this). He inquired what we needed today and after telling him of my pilgrimage from Georgia to see the flagship store he stopped everything and proceeded to take on us on a grand, hour long tour of the store.

The store is 10 stories and steeped in history. Each floor has a slightly different theme and decor based on the items sold on that level. I believe he said the sixth floor is the runway used for all fashion shows and product releases. We saw everything, from the goofy, expensive Thom Browne collection, called “Black Fleece” to your typical OCBD (oxford cloth button down). A guide is almost a requirement to find anything because the selection is so extensive and separated by floor.

Steve was quite enamored with all of it himself and took great pride in showing us the most expensive items even though it was readily apparent we had no interest or even means of purchasing most of the items in the store. It meant a lot to me to be treated as though I could and given the same level of service. I have to give Sandy a lot of credit also. She kept a smile on her face despite the fact she was ready to leave as soon as we stepped in. I thought she was going to flip out when Steve started showing us the high end gator luggage, bags, and belts. Sandy is a vegetarian. She was a trooper.

I had not really planned to buy anything in BB but did end up purchasing a yellow OCBD. I wanted a slim fit but all they had in “must iron” was the traditional fit, so I settled. I almost felt obligated after the level of service we were given. I imagine it would be a treat to get fitted for a custom suit there. Apparently they have a little room where they can take all of your appropriate measurements digitally. It was being used while we were on the tour though so I didn’t get to see it.

Before we left we were also given a few handy little pocket maps of the subway and the city (pictured above with my scarf) as well as bottles of water, and a bound Brooks Brothers guide to the city. Steve even gave us a weather report on our way out and thus was affectionately known as the “Brooks Brothers Weather Man” the rest of the trip. He called for snow though and it did snow as we were leaving dinner late the evening.

I wish I had more time and budget in each of these stores but unfortunately neither of those things were on my side. I feel somewhat accomplished now that I have actually visited a J Press store. It would have been nice though to try on a few jackets to get a feel for size for online ordering. I guess I’ll have to do some traveling whenever I want to purchase something. Despite being familiar with Brooks Brothers stores, 346 Madison was worth the experience. If you are a fan of traditional men’s clothing and happen to make your way to NYC, consider the Madison store a tourist attraction. It almost is.

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