Whilst in NYC I made it a goal to visit both J. Press and the Brooks Brothers flagship store. Both were an experience. These two stores are largely considered the Meccas of traditional American men’s clothing, particularly those that subscribe to the natural shoulder, sack cut, ivy league style. This style has been dubbed “Trad” by those at Ask Andy About Clothes as well as other communities such as Style Forum and Film Noir Buff. While the “Trad” term is largely an internet creation, the clothes have their root in American history. For furthering reading on this topic I suggest the following (as well as the links above):
My first stop was J. Press at 380 Madison Ave. I’d never step foot in a J. Press before, only ogled the catalogs. I had never even purchased anything from them before (my budget typically won’t allow it). I had spotted a nice looking long sleeve Madras shirt in the catalog beforehand and was also interested in a gold tie bar, so I had a shopping agenda on this visit. I’m a fan of gold accessories. What is everyone’s infatuation with silver or stainless items?
I was surprised when I first walked in. It was all very white and very bright. The racks were full of tweed, navy, flannel, and all those other “frumpy, old man” styles but the rest of the decor screamed of an upscale Gap or J. Crew. I was expecting old dark wood, paintings of the store’s founders on the wall, and maybe even an old crotchety fellow in a bow tie smoking a cigar in the corner. I was disappointed. I’ve heard the other Press locations are more traditional.
My shopping time was limited but the clothing selection was overwhelming. I had no idea where to even start. I could have spent all day in there trying on blazers, suits, etc. Unfortunately I think Sandy would have strangled me. The store was crowded also (it was Friday evening). I was helped by a busy but still attentive salesmen. He directed me toward the madras shirts (they didn’t have what I had seen on the website) and helped me with a tie bar. I did not purchase a tie bar though and instead I decided on something more practical. I picked a scarf, specifically a wool “schoolboy muffler.” It is made in England of 100% wool and in a yellow and navy stripe specifically for St. Anthony’s Hall at Yale. I have no affiliation with Yale or any Ivy League for that matter, but pale yellow and navy looked good to me and seemed most appropriate for my alma mater.
The scarf was immediately useful. My combination of a pea coat, sheltland sweater, and oxford shirt was not cutting it against the miserable NYC cold and wind. It even snowed later that night. It was on sale too so no complaints on my end. That scarf has probably turned out to be one of the more rational and better clothing purchases I’ve made as far as need and use. It’s up there with my Bean boots. I wore it the entire time we were in NYC.
The next stop was a Brooks Brothers at 346 Madison. I’ve been in Brooks Brothers many times (there are stores in Raleigh and Atlanta), ordered from the catalog, and purchased their clothing at thrift stores or off eBay. 346 Madison is the flagship store and it is an impressive experience. When we walked in we were greeted by a gentleman who I’ll refer to as “Steve” who described himself as the “Brand Ambassador” (his business card even says this). He inquired what we needed today and after telling him of my pilgrimage from Georgia to see the flagship store he stopped everything and proceeded to take on us on a grand, hour long tour of the store.
The store is 10 stories and steeped in history. Each floor has a slightly different theme and decor based on the items sold on that level. I believe he said the sixth floor is the runway used for all fashion shows and product releases. We saw everything, from the goofy, expensive Thom Browne collection, called “Black Fleece” to your typical OCBD (oxford cloth button down). A guide is almost a requirement to find anything because the selection is so extensive and separated by floor.
Steve was quite enamored with all of it himself and took great pride in showing us the most expensive items even though it was readily apparent we had no interest or even means of purchasing most of the items in the store. It meant a lot to me to be treated as though I could and given the same level of service. I have to give Sandy a lot of credit also. She kept a smile on her face despite the fact she was ready to leave as soon as we stepped in. I thought she was going to flip out when Steve started showing us the high end gator luggage, bags, and belts. Sandy is a vegetarian. She was a trooper.
I had not really planned to buy anything in BB but did end up purchasing a yellow OCBD. I wanted a slim fit but all they had in “must iron” was the traditional fit, so I settled. I almost felt obligated after the level of service we were given. I imagine it would be a treat to get fitted for a custom suit there. Apparently they have a little room where they can take all of your appropriate measurements digitally. It was being used while we were on the tour though so I didn’t get to see it.
Before we left we were also given a few handy little pocket maps of the subway and the city (pictured above with my scarf) as well as bottles of water, and a bound Brooks Brothers guide to the city. Steve even gave us a weather report on our way out and thus was affectionately known as the “Brooks Brothers Weather Man” the rest of the trip. He called for snow though and it did snow as we were leaving dinner late the evening.
I wish I had more time and budget in each of these stores but unfortunately neither of those things were on my side. I feel somewhat accomplished now that I have actually visited a J Press store. It would have been nice though to try on a few jackets to get a feel for size for online ordering. I guess I’ll have to do some traveling whenever I want to purchase something. Despite being familiar with Brooks Brothers stores, 346 Madison was worth the experience. If you are a fan of traditional men’s clothing and happen to make your way to NYC, consider the Madison store a tourist attraction. It almost is.
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Tags: 6 Comments
Zachary, thanks for the wonderful post. 346 is indeed a destination spot for the “Trad” shopper, an amazing place.
Beautiful scarf.
J. Press opened its flagship store at 380 Madison just one year ago. This article explains the look…
http://www.dnrnews.com/site/article.php?id=73
It’s a shame you didn’t get a chance to visit the original NY store – it was close to what you had imagined.
A very good account of Press & Brooks and a really enjoyable read – Thank you!
You define “Trad” very well also.
My best to your blog –
RS
Zachary, this is a great post. Thank you. You have really described the wonderful serendipity that can come when one travels. I don’t get much of a chance to go to NYC, but growing up in Chicago, often went to the BB downtown on Monroe Street. It was located next to Capper & Capper and, I believe, across the street from Sulka. BB has since moved to the Rookery Building a bit further south in The Loop. But I still remember the old store on Monroe. Lots of old wood display cases and “old boy” salespersons, conservatively dressed. One day, HTJ was looking for some new OCBDs. I asked if more colors were available in the university stripe, and the gentleman helping me said, “Just a moment.” He went off into the back of the store and disappeared behind a dark wooden door. I waited and looked at the wooden cases and old tin plated ceiling. In a few moments, he reappeared with a yellow university stripe OCBD. I purchased it and a couple of other shirts and left. I visited the store again many times, but for some reason have always remembered that salesman and that experience. It is so much fun when a shopping experience turns into a minor epiphany of sorts. Cheers. Btw, does the map in your post have a bit of regimental stripe on it?!
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