nadsat

Uniform, no, not the blue blazer and khakis uniform popularized on AAAC (Ask Andy About Clothes) Trad Forums but rather an actual company uniform. Yes, an honest to goodness, name on your shirt uniform.I’ve recently moved from Augusta, GA to Columbus, OH to start a new job and that new job requires a uniform to be worn everyday. On one hand this simplifies the wardrobe considerably since the uniform is supplied by the company. On the other hand I can’t wear what I want to wear.

The weekends and what I wear to and from work is all my own (we change into the uniform once at work) so there’s no difference there for me. In fact it will probably inspire me to take my weekend and evening attire to a hirer level than I might normally (or not, we’ll see). Ohio has a different feel thus far than the South, a little more casual, more of a jeans and t-shirt kind of atmosphere. Augusta and The South in general tend to lean a little more toward the prep side of style. I’m still trying to get a feel for Columbus and I’ll have more thoughts on it later.

Enough rambling, the question at hand is is there any room for personal style with a uniform? The uniform consists of cotton work pants and a cotton button up mechanic’s shirt. This leaves the shoes, socks, belt, watch, and any other accessories up to the individual. What’s the preppy, trad, TNSIL, etc kinda guy to do?

Time to explore the casual side of things.

Shoes are probably the biggest personal selection. Most people wear tennis shoes and the rest some sort of work boot. Boots are required in some environment but are not typical. The potential for shoe damage still remains from chemical use or just plain dirty environments.  Penny loafers, longwings, park avenues, etc seem inappropriate given the rest of the attire. Bucks and blutchers are probably the way to go in this case. I’ve been wearing the AE Commuters that I originally picked up as good walking shoes for my NYC trip. Something like the Alden All Weather Walkers might be appropriate too. There’s also the just fit in and get some decent tennis shoes option too. I’m seriously considering just a decent pair of gray sneakers and settling the issue like that.

The belt and watch allow more flexibility. Ribbon and surcingle belts are natural options. Subtle, classic patterns are key though. I’ve yet to try the different watch bands like at Central Watch. Maybe this is a good time to pick up a cheap Timex and give it a shot? A nice navy and red or navy and yellow would look good I think. The two pictures below are good examples, taken from Tripreed and Squire at AAAC:

I think the watchband and different belts are my best options. Shoes have too much potential to get messed up to invest too much in it. Sometimes it is better to go with the crowd too. Overall I think this is something I need to just try and see how it feels.

Any thoughts?

I can’t remember the last time my Dad wore shorts. There may be an old picture of the family at Myrtle Beach with him in shorts but it has be at least ten years old. He believes once a man reaches a certain age he ceases to wear shorts. It’s the same logic with jeans. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of my Dad wearing jeans, let alone see a photograph of it. Perhaps I’m just not old enough yet but I don’t see a problem with either shorts or jeans. I’ll save the jeans discussion for later and since the weather is warming up and summer is about to begin, shorts are relevant.

Inseam is the biggest question for me when it comes to shorts shopping. I like a 7″ inseam. Some have called me picky, others particular, but I just like to think I know exactly what I want. The only place I’ve had much success finding 7″ inseam shorts is J. Crew and even then you must order it from the catalog for the not so low price of roughly $50 dollars. LL Bean and Lands End produce much more affordable shorts in a 6″ inseam but for some reason that extra inch makes all the difference to me. The rest of the world seems happy with either 9 or 10 inch shorts but not me. What’s a fella to do?

I decided to turn old pairs of pants into shorts. What you say? Cut the legs off perfectly good pants? Yes it might not be the simplest approach but it certainly works. Shorts are inherently casual things so using pants that have some extra mileage on them is not a concern. Have pants with worn or frayed cuffs? Even better! For my little experiment I selected three pairs of pants that while not that old or worn, were not getting much wear. Each is made of 100% cotton, but in a thin, summer weave. This made them cool pants to wear in warm weather but also made them impossibly wrinkly. I hate to iron so they never got much wear.

After a short stay at the tailor shop, my pants returned as three pairs of shorts. The best part: the inseam was just a matter of telling the tailor what I wanted. The cost was the same as finishing a pair of pants, certainly less than purchasing a new pair from J. Crew and it gave new life to three old items.

Is there any difference between these “shorts” and those purchased new? Not that I can tell. See if you can guess which pair in the picture below started life as pants:

The green pair was originally pants.  The khaki pair was purchased from J. Crew.  I’m not sure if this approach is economical if doing it with new pants but I guess it depends on the level of customization you want and how attached you are to a certain model of pant.  Some online sellers offer free hemming on their pants and I think some AAAC members have had success ordering their “pants” with short length inseams.  I have not tried this myself.

I think I’m set for the summer on shorts for now, but any pants that become too frayed to wear will received second consideration as shorts.

Whilst in NYC I made it a goal to visit both J. Press and the Brooks Brothers flagship store. Both were an experience. These two stores are largely considered the Meccas of traditional American men’s clothing, particularly those that subscribe to the natural shoulder, sack cut, ivy league style. This style has been dubbed “Trad” by those at Ask Andy About Clothes as well as other communities such as Style Forum and Film Noir Buff. While the “Trad” term is largely an internet creation, the clothes have their root in American history. For furthering reading on this topic I suggest the following (as well as the links above):

• Long Suffering Trad
• TNSIL
• Ivy League

My first stop was J. Press at 380 Madison Ave. I’d never step foot in a J. Press before, only ogled the catalogs. I had never even purchased anything from them before (my budget typically won’t allow it). I had spotted a nice looking long sleeve Madras shirt in the catalog beforehand and was also interested in a gold tie bar, so I had a shopping agenda on this visit. I’m a fan of gold accessories. What is everyone’s infatuation with silver or stainless items?

I was surprised when I first walked in. It was all very white and very bright. The racks were full of tweed, navy, flannel, and all those other “frumpy, old man” styles but the rest of the decor screamed of an upscale Gap or J. Crew. I was expecting old dark wood, paintings of the store’s founders on the wall, and maybe even an old crotchety fellow in a bow tie smoking a cigar in the corner. I was disappointed. I’ve heard the other Press locations are more traditional.

My shopping time was limited but the clothing selection was overwhelming. I had no idea where to even start. I could have spent all day in there trying on blazers, suits, etc. Unfortunately I think Sandy would have strangled me. The store was crowded also (it was Friday evening). I was helped by a busy but still attentive salesmen. He directed me toward the madras shirts (they didn’t have what I had seen on the website) and helped me with a tie bar. I did not purchase a tie bar though and instead I decided on something more practical. I picked a scarf, specifically a wool “schoolboy muffler.” It is made in England of 100% wool and in a yellow and navy stripe specifically for St. Anthony’s Hall at Yale. I have no affiliation with Yale or any Ivy League for that matter, but pale yellow and navy looked good to me and seemed most appropriate for my alma mater.

The scarf was immediately useful. My combination of a pea coat, sheltland sweater, and oxford shirt was not cutting it against the miserable NYC cold and wind. It even snowed later that night. It was on sale too so no complaints on my end. That scarf has probably turned out to be one of the more rational and better clothing purchases I’ve made as far as need and use. It’s up there with my Bean boots. I wore it the entire time we were in NYC.

The next stop was a Brooks Brothers at 346 Madison. I’ve been in Brooks Brothers many times (there are stores in Raleigh and Atlanta), ordered from the catalog, and purchased their clothing at thrift stores or off eBay. 346 Madison is the flagship store and it is an impressive experience. When we walked in we were greeted by a gentleman who I’ll refer to as “Steve” who described himself as the “Brand Ambassador” (his business card even says this). He inquired what we needed today and after telling him of my pilgrimage from Georgia to see the flagship store he stopped everything and proceeded to take on us on a grand, hour long tour of the store.

The store is 10 stories and steeped in history. Each floor has a slightly different theme and decor based on the items sold on that level. I believe he said the sixth floor is the runway used for all fashion shows and product releases. We saw everything, from the goofy, expensive Thom Browne collection, called “Black Fleece” to your typical OCBD (oxford cloth button down). A guide is almost a requirement to find anything because the selection is so extensive and separated by floor.

Steve was quite enamored with all of it himself and took great pride in showing us the most expensive items even though it was readily apparent we had no interest or even means of purchasing most of the items in the store. It meant a lot to me to be treated as though I could and given the same level of service. I have to give Sandy a lot of credit also. She kept a smile on her face despite the fact she was ready to leave as soon as we stepped in. I thought she was going to flip out when Steve started showing us the high end gator luggage, bags, and belts. Sandy is a vegetarian. She was a trooper.

I had not really planned to buy anything in BB but did end up purchasing a yellow OCBD. I wanted a slim fit but all they had in “must iron” was the traditional fit, so I settled. I almost felt obligated after the level of service we were given. I imagine it would be a treat to get fitted for a custom suit there. Apparently they have a little room where they can take all of your appropriate measurements digitally. It was being used while we were on the tour though so I didn’t get to see it.

Before we left we were also given a few handy little pocket maps of the subway and the city (pictured above with my scarf) as well as bottles of water, and a bound Brooks Brothers guide to the city. Steve even gave us a weather report on our way out and thus was affectionately known as the “Brooks Brothers Weather Man” the rest of the trip. He called for snow though and it did snow as we were leaving dinner late the evening.

I wish I had more time and budget in each of these stores but unfortunately neither of those things were on my side. I feel somewhat accomplished now that I have actually visited a J Press store. It would have been nice though to try on a few jackets to get a feel for size for online ordering. I guess I’ll have to do some traveling whenever I want to purchase something. Despite being familiar with Brooks Brothers stores, 346 Madison was worth the experience. If you are a fan of traditional men’s clothing and happen to make your way to NYC, consider the Madison store a tourist attraction. It almost is.

By the end of our trip Sandy and I were ready to quit our jobs, rent a closet-sized apartment, and make the NYC experience a permanent one. It is just an intoxicating place. The food, the shopping, the sites, the people… something is always happening and that something is never boring. NYC is the star of so many tv shows and movies that would be drab if it not for the setting. The experience solidified my position as a bonafided East Coast snob forever. L.A. can suck it, give me NYC any day. (I’d probably trade San Francisco for Boston though.)

Our last day and a half included a Broadway performance of Spam-a-lot (featuring none other than Clay Aiken), more cheesecake, tea by Moby, 5th and Madison Ave shopping, and a sushi meal beyond description.

Clay Aiken was not too bad. His singing was on par and probably better than most of the other players but his dancing was awkward and somewhat uncoordinated. It was not even a dance intensive show either. He was tolerable though and did not detract from my enjoyment of the show in anyway. More distracting were the classless fans that would hoot and holler whenever Clay would take the stage. Why do middle-aged women love this man?

All that said Spam-a-lot was really a great show and a great Broadway experience. If you’re a fan of anything Monty Python then check this out if you get a chance. I know it’s playing in Vegas as well.

Fifth and Madison Avenue are fun to window shop and people watch along. It’s boutique and high-end designer after boutique and high-end designer. Everything from stalwarts like Tiffany’s (a very impressive store) to up and coming designers, everyone wants to be on one of those two streets. It was funny to see the women with their coffee and pastries doing their best Audrey Hepburn impersonations outside of Tiffany’s. I don’t think Miss Hepburn drank Starbuck’s though.
TeaNY, Moby’s cafe/tea shop in on the Lower East Side, got a mention on Single Guy’s Kitchen as well. It was a fun experience. We actually opened them up at a little after 10. I guess not eating meat makes you sleepy. It was a rather unopposing storefront and more closely resembled a hole in the wall then the restaurant of a famous musician. Moby has never been the loud, look at me type though so this is fitting in a certain light. The food was good and the tea selection was excellent. It gets my recommendation. If I ever go back I’ll be sure to pick up a tea pot and a cook book.
Sushi, like I said, was indescribeable. My sushi lexicon is pretty weak anyway. I usually trust Sandy on matters of sushi and I’ve been spoiled to the ultra-Americanized maki rolls. Basically I eat whatever she puts in front of me at a sushi restaurant and usually enjoy it. Maki, Sandy’s Japanese sister-in-law, selected the restaurant and gave us a recommendation on what to order. I wasn’t about to question anything when what we ordered ended up being a huge tray full of chunks of raw fish with no rolls in sight. We each ate sushi until we couldn’t think about putting another piece in our mouths. The restaurant was called Takahachi and we ate at the Tribeca location.

While eating sushi we drank sake. This doesn’t sound out of the ordinary but I’m not used to sipping on straight booze while eating supper. The sake tasted like a really weak vodka but in a good way. For the record I hate vodka but this wasn’t too bad. I don’t think I want a bottle of sake with every meal but it was a new experience and a good one.

Our last meal in NYC was at the world famous Carnegie Deli. The Carnegie Deli is my most vivid and fondest memory from my first trip to NYC so we had to go back. It was the only restaurant I knew in the city. I covered the experience in depth at Single Guy’s Kitchen so I’ll direct y’all there.

We were sad to leave NYC but unfortunately our trip had to end. Our legs were tired and our checking accounts were empty. We had a wonderful time and started talking about a return trip on the flight home. Having knowledgeable, local guides definitely enhanced the experience as well as not planning too much. A lot of our time was left to just exploring and not worrying about a schedule or rushing to see a certain exhibit or attraction before it closed. Also get a good subway map and get comfortable with the idea of the riding it. The subway really is the best way to get around. Lastly, don’t bother with taking a cab if you come from JFK. As much as I bitched about the train ride into Manhattan, the cab ride out was more expensive and took longer due to traffic. I now think private car is the only way to go (Mr. Big style). Really just avoid flying into JFK if you can.

Thanks for reading and I encourage anyone who has yet to experience this city to start planning a trip.

Our second day in The Big Apple was primarily spent exploring. We started the day with breakfast at City Hall in Tribeca with Jeff. Once again this was just a short walk from his apartment. It was a good breakfast but probably our most lackluster meal of the trip. A lackluster meal on this trip was still top notch though. We didn’t suffer at any meal.

From breakfast it was up to former World Trade Center site or “ground zero” (NYCers hate this term by the way). There’s not much I can really say about it. It’s more or less a construction site now but it is still primarily just a big hole in the ground. I still wanted to see it though and I’m still glad I did. It was just something I felt I needed to do.

After the WTC we took a walk on the Brooklyn Bridge and experienced some amazing views of the city. There is a nice walking/bike path right up the center of the bridge that made it an easy walk. We walked the entire length and back. I had my feet in Brooklyn for a few moments and then back to the safety of Manhattan. It is interested to note that the section of Brooklyn under the bridge is a hip little area referred to as “DUMBO” or “Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass”. It’s full of lofts and other hip, overpriced living quarters.

After the bridge we ventured out into the Village with Jeff, Maki, and Billy. We stuck to the West Village primarily and after trying to get tea in “Little Britain” at a place called Tea and Sympathy, we made our way over to a tea room called Atrium in the Meat Packing district. Afternoon tea was a new experience for me but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I especially liked the scones and clotted cream. Sandy and I enjoyed it so that we had tea and scones our last day in NYC and I’ve since gotten her a small teapot. I’m waiting on her to supply the scones.

The night was spent with a couple of Sandy’s friends from the Jersey days. We saw a comedy show that wasn’t really worth mentioning but had a pleasant evening out afterwards. We walked a bunch, had classic NYC cheesecake at Junior’s near Times Square, drinks at a BBQ joint in the Village, I learned the term “gayborhood”, and we found ourselves at a hole in the wall, prohibition style watering hole.

It was called The Rabbit Club and it was located down off the street in the West Village. There was no sign and any other indication that the establishment was a bar. There was just a black door and a buzzer. Ring the buzzer for entrance and you were greeted with a gritty little bar, worn exposed brick/stone walls, an impossibly narrow walk way past the bar, and minimal seating. The noise level was manageable for such a small place though and the beer list was impressively European. The Rabbit Club just clicked with me. It was exclusive but not elite. You had to know someone who had been before to find it and ringing the bell took some nerves but once inside the atmosphere was friendly and welcoming. The bartender was courteous and helpful. The entire mood was jovial. It’s the kind of bar I’d like to spend a lot of time at.