“I’ve had years of cramped up city life, trapped like a duck in a pen. All I know is its a pity life can’t be simple again.”
Bluegrass fans and certainly Tennessee folk should recognize the lyric above from the classic, Rocky Top. Why a bluegrass lyric about mountain living to start a story about NYC? When people think city most think New York City. It’s THE city to a whole host of Americans. No one thinks the HBO series, Sex and The City, takes place in Chicago, LA, Atlanta, or Boston. Most people associate the term, “the city”, and certainly the city life with New York City.
I’ve been to NYC once before. I was up with my Dad and sister so she could visit NYU (did every teenage girl go through an “I want to go to NYU and study psychology” phase?) but being in the city was a totally different experience this time around. Sandy and I went together, leaving from Charlotte early Friday morning and returning Monday evening. One of her older brothers lives in lower Manhattan and she had not seen her nephew yet so it was a perfect excuse to go up. It was a full, tiring, but very satisfying weekend in the city.
Obstacle 1: Riding the Subway. I’m not anti-public transportation, I’m just not used to it. I’ve never lived in a place for any significant period of time that had a decent, usable rail system. MARTA in Atlanta is only useful for getting to the airport and possibly Braves games. The Skytrain in Vancouver was nice but I never had to truly commute on it. I hate buses, those are awful anywhere, but train or rail systems aren’t bad in general. So perhaps obstacle is the wrong word, maybe “new experience” is a better one. Public transport is best left for short trips in my opinion. Riding the A-train from JFK to lower Manhattan was not a pleasant experience. For getting around the island throughout the day, it was great.
The A-train, soon to be our go to rail line, was crowded, long, and cold on Friday morning. Combine this with the fact that we were dragging along our luggage and were both fighting runny noses, and you have a not so enjoyable experience. On the runny nose issue, I don’t think I’ve ever used more hand sanitizer in a weekend than I did that weekend. Part of it was trying to limit the spread of my germs and a distinct feeling of disgust after touching anything on the subway or in the station. Luckily I was wearing gloves most of the time and I eventually got comfortable with the grime.
Our first day was a full one. We had gotten up at 3:30 that morning to catch our flight out of Charlotte and were beat by the end but we made the most of it. We got our bearings for the city, walked a ton, visited the Museum of Natural History, had our first of many slices of pizza, our first of several slices of cheesecake, I purchased a much needed scarf, visited the mecca for classic American style, met Sandy’s adorable nephew, and enjoyed a knock out dinner with Sandy’s brother and sister-in-law.
Our agenda for the trip was pretty simple. Sandy wanted to see her family and a close friend from Jersey. I wanted to eat cheesecake, meet more of Sandy’s family and friends, and visit two stores, Brooks Brothers and J. Press. We both also wanted to just take in the NYC experience.
After arriving at about 9:45 am in Tribeca (southwest Manhattan), at her brother’s apartment, we got to see her six month old nephew, Billy, and sister-in-law, Maki. From there it was into the streets to find a good slice of pizza in nearby Little Italy. Little Italy was certainly nearby, in fact we ended up over shooting it. We had a vague idea where it was but took extended tours of Soho and Chinatown on our way. After encountering a few places not yet open for lunch (who isn’t open for lunch by 11:30?) we settled in on a little hole in the wall called Rudy’s in the heart of Little Italy for a couple slices of pizza.
After lunch we hopped on the subway to the upper west side to visit the Museum of Natural History. After a complete but not exhaustive tour of the museum we decided it was time to eat again and cheesecake was what we wanted. We had planned to visit Zabar’s as Sandy had talked them up and they were just a few blocks from the museum. Upon arriving we found out they had no fresh cheesecake so we hit the streets again. We didn’t know exactly where we were going but decided we would know it when we found it.
Walking on 83rd we came across, Cafe Lalo. It looked like a nice little cafe and Sandy thought it looked familiar, almost like the cafe in the Tom Hank’s movie, You’ve Got Mail. It was one in the same. They had pictures from the film and little note outside by the entrance. Inside it was small and tables were jammed right up against one another but it created a cozy feel rather than a crowded one. The dessert case in the front was massive and had an extensive, mouthwatering selection of different cheesecakes, pies, and cakes. The menu was very impressive with a nice selection of hot and cold cafe-type drinks and a dessert list large enough to occupy a few months worth of sampling. It even included a list of alcoholic hot chocolate specialties.
We each had a huge mug of hot chocolate and slice of something sweet. Sandy had some sort of chocolate banana cream pie and I had the brownie chunk cheesecake. Both were great. The cheesecake was not as firm or dense as the typical cheesecake. This was probably a good thing though as we were both over halfway to a sugar-induced coma by the end of the meal. We were impressed though. The petite Asian girl sitting next to us polished off two large pieces of cheesecake without even blinking an eye. This place seemed to have some die hard fans, always a good sign.
After the cheesecake, we strolled over to Madison Ave where I purchased the aforementioned scarf at J Press and visited Brooks Brothers‘ flagship store at 346 Madison. This was an experience in its own and one that I’ll write about separately.
After the brief shopping experience we tiredly made our way back to Tribeca to Jeff and Maki’s apartment. From there we showered, recuperated briefly, and then set out for dinner. It was really amazing to me, but our best meals weren’t but a few blocks walk from Jeff and Maki’s apartment. NYC has phenomenal food in every neighborhood. No matter which part of the city one lived in, a fantastic meal is probably not more than a couple blocks away. I could get used to that. Easily.
We ate at ROC, a modern Italian restaurant with a wonderful atmosphere, great service, and of course excellent food. Sandy had a clam dish and I enjoyed a nice piece of salmon over a bed of mushrooms and other vegetables. Those that know me are probably shocked by this. I generally don’t care for mushrooms. It’s not a flavor issue but more of a texture thing. Somehow the texture issue was eliminated in this case and the mushrooms were a great addition to the fish. Sandy and I agreed that while not the most flashy, this was probably our favorite meal of the weekend. Great food, company, and wine; what else does one need?
It started to snow while we were enjoying our meal and we ended up walking in a light snow/sleet mixture. Sandy and I were dead tired. We had an incredibly full first day but I could not imagine a better way to have spent it.